Iro 'kuzvirumbidza pachena' ishoko rinoshandiswa nezvizvarwa zvedhijitari kuratidza zvichangobva kuwanikwa zvinhu zveumbozha uye zvidimbu zvekutaura pasocial media. Zvivako zvegodo revezera, zvinowanzova zveesoteric: shangu, mabhegi, uye zvipfeko zvisingawanzofadzi ziso; zvishoma zvisinganzwisisiki, zvinopandukira, kana kuti zvakashata-zvinotonhorera. Kutonhorera kwavo ruzivo rwenharaunda: kana iwe uchiziva, iwe unoziva. Iwe unogona kushandisa iyo nzira kune zvakawanda zvezvinhu izvo Matthew M. Williams anogadzira Givenchy.
Kugara kwake pamba kunoratidzika kunge kwakanangana neGen Z nevaya vanozviratidzira mavari-kana kana gore rapfuura nhandare yemagariro enhau ine vanhu vanoteedzerwa zvakanyanya pasirese chiri chinhu chingaitwa.
"Pakupera kwezuva, zvinodzokera kumashure uye zvandinoshuvira. Handisi so strategic. Ndinovimba mutengi anoda zvandinoda,"
Matthew M. Williams.
Mugadziri akadaro parunhare kubva kuParis, asi muunganidzwa wake wesophomore wairatidzika kunge wakanyatsoenderana neiyo Gen Z chikamu. Silhouettes dzaive dzakajeka uye dzakasimba nenzira yaidzokorora mavhoriyamu e-skate-wear mumitsetse yakawanda sartorial; “micro-macro,” akavadana—achiwedzeredza sokunge akaitwa kuti aonekwe nepahwindo.
Mavara aive hyper-tactile nenzira iyo mesmeric yekuti chivharo chefoni mune faux garwe kana neon fuzz chinoita kuti uropi hude kutambanudza ruoko nekuibata. Uye zvishongedzo zvaive nemhando yepamusoro uye yekuveza pamusoro pazvo izvo zvinoita kuti zviyeukwe uye Insta-yakakodzera, senge-kunze-kwenzvimbo-chinhu munzvimbo isingafungirwe.
Yakanga yakaiswa muhombe, majasi ane mvere uye magirati ane mabaclava anoenderana-ane nyanga, semwaka wapfuura-uye hofori furry mittens sechinhu chakabuda mubhuku raJean M. Auel, asi zvimwe "extra-terrestrial," sezvakataurwa naWilliams nezvehwanda rake. -kufanana neshangu dzepuratifomu, dzakakodzera centaur.
Inoratidzwa muindasitiri yeParis La Défense Arena (iyo mugadziri akati yakamuyeuchidza nezvebasa rake rekare revaimbi) aine marambi emusoro achifamba pamusoro pemisoro yemodhiyani sekunge ari kumhanya kubva kune soso rinobhururuka, muunganidzwa wacho waive wehunyanzvi hwesainzi asi ne lockdown-yakafuridzirwa outdoorsy twist tatojaira mwaka uno. Muchokwadi, kana nguva yedu yakadzikama munguva yakashandura pfungwa dzevagadziri kuti dzive huru kunze, iri raive guva rekunze - iro rakasimba, rekare vhezheni.
Tichitaura nezvezvinhu zvakaoma uye zvine fashoni, cheni dzakakura dzeCuba dzakataura kune yazvino social media mania, ukuwo Hardware pakugadzira uye sekushongedza pamadhirezi kwakaenderera mberi nekunetsana kwaWilliam pakati pevaGivenchy ateliers nenyika yake yemaindasitiri.
"Ivo vane hunhu uye vanoyevedza uye vanoratidza simba revakadzi," akadaro.
Akaturikira hunhu hwakafanana mukusundidzira kapeti dzvuku, mumadhirezi emvura emanheru emvura akamonereka nemasenekeri akaomarara, ayo aipinda mumipendero yakashata sekuputika kwemafungu. Mitsetse yavo yairatidza kurudziro yaWilliam inoenderera mberi yechimiro chevakadzi, chinoratidzirwa nenhamba dzakarukwa dzemuviri kana madhirezi ekoramu.Kwemakore ekutanga makumi mana nematatu ekuvapo kwayo, imba yeGivenchy yaive chiyeuchidzo chekuchengetedza kuravira kwakanaka.
Kunyangwe zvakadaro, kunze kwebhokisi, hunyanzvi hwaivewo chikamu cheiyo equation. Hubert de Givenchy akaita mucherechedzo nemuunganidzwa wake wekutanga muna 1952: Yakanga yakavakirwa pane zvakapatsanurwa, izvo mukadzi aigona kusanganisa nekufananidza pane kupfeka huranda sezvakaratidzwa nemugadziri, uye yaive pfungwa nyowani panguva iyoyo.
Kuti couturier ndiye aive mudiki pane chiitiko cheParis (uye akanaka kwazvo 6-foot-6) haana kukuvadza wongororo yake zvakare.
Givenchy akatorwa pasi pebapiro reSpanish tenzi Cristóbal Balenciaga, uye mushure mezvo basa rake rakava rechidiki.
Iye nomuperekedzi wake vakarondedzerwa neThe New York Times se“pasina mubvunzo vagadziri vouporofita zvikurusa venyika.” Mukati meiyi nhambo akasuma (pamwe chete naBalenciaga) chemisi yechimurenga, kana kuti dhirezi remasaga, rinorumbidzwa se“chimiro chitsva chaichoicho chefashoni.” Anonziwo kupayona muchindakadzi silhouette, uye apo sprite yemubhaisikopo Audrey Hepburn akatanga kupfekedza Givenchy's Little Black Dress, zita rake rakave rakabatana zvachose neiyo Sabrina neckline.