Comme Des Garçons Shirt Fall/Mariha 2014 Paris

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E ngotsoe ke Matthew Schneier

Rei Kawakubo o boletse hore haeba a ne a ka qapa seaparo se le seng, e ka be e le hempe e tšoeu. "Ke karolo ea bohlokoa ea liaparo tsa monna," monna oa hae, mofetoleli, le CEO oa k'hamphani, Adrian Joffe, ba boletse molemong oa hae. “Lihempe, baki le borikhoe ke tsona motheo oa motheo.”

Hantle-ntle ke seo Comme des Garçons Shirt e se etsang, ka ho hatisa lihempe tsa titular. Mohala, e leng eona feela pokello ea Comme des Garçons e entsoeng ka ho feletseng Fora, e emela karolo ea boraro ea liaparo tsa banna tsa label: Ho na le Homme Plus, "enjene," e fuoang boikhohomoso ba sebaka har'a ba bararo ba tseleng ea lifofane ea Paris; Homme Deux, mokhoa o sebetsang haholoanyane oa liofisi oa mekhoa ea khale e sothehileng; le Shirt, e sebetsang e le lesea la ntlo 'me hangata e le sebaka sa ho kena ho kutloisiso ea eona ea esoteric. (Leha ho le joalo, ha a le lilemo li 23, lesea le se le qetile nako e telele le hlōlisana le lona ’me hona joale le lilemong tsa bocha tse phutholohileng.)

Lenaneo le lenyane la Shirt, le ileng la tšoaroa letsatsi ka mor'a Homme Plus, le fane ka mefuta ea eona ea linako tsa selemo mabapi le sehlooho sa eona sa mantlha. Bakeng sa hoetla, borikhoe bo ne bo koetsoe ka mokhoa o tšoanang kapa bo phuthoa, lihempe li bonts'oa kaofela; ho tletse maikutlo a hore ho sunya motho e ka ba tlōlo ea molao. (CDG ha se letho haeba e se thata ho seo e se ratang.) Li na le lintlha tse qaqileng ka li-patchworking, ruffles, li-plackets tse peli, le li-appliqués tse bōpehileng joaloka bubble tse ileng tsa hopotsa lintlha tse ling tsa pokello ea Homme Plus. Mehala ena e 'meli e fapane ka ho felletseng, ho boletse Joffe, empa hangata ba hokahana. “Ke motho a le mong,” a rialo a kgwahlapisa.

O mong feela, empa Shirt e nka tse ngata. Ke mohala oo Comme des Garçons a sebelisanang haholo le bataki, mabitso le lik'hamphani. Hajoale e etsa lieta ka The Generic Man le line ea liaparo le Disney, e nang le litšoantšo tsa polokelo ea Mickey le metsoalle; pokello ea morao-rao e entsoe ka tumellano le Franchise ea George Lucas ea Star Wars, mme pele ho moo, ho bile le lilemo tse tharo le Fred Perry. Lekhetlong lena, Kawakubo o ile a memela Nicolas Buffe, moqapi oa Mofora ea lulang Tokyo, hore a kene lesakeng. Har'a lintho tse ling, liqapi tsa Buffe le liaparo tsa li-opera tsa Paris, 'me litšoantšo tsa hae tsa lihlopha tsa sethala le baetsi ba theko e boima li ile tsa hatisoa ('me joale li na le matheba a polka, a mebala-bala, kapa a mang a Comme-ified) ka lihempe, lifupi le marikhoe.

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