UMHLANGANO OMKHULU
IFOTO BRUCE WEBER
FASHION DEBORAH WATSONISICATSHULWA KATHARINE K. ZARRELLA
EZIHLANU ZAMA-VMAN AMA-PIONEER AMADODA AMADODA ABUTHANA USUKU LWEZIHLOBO, IIFOTO, KUNYE NOMNWABO.
Khawube nomfanekiso-ngqondweni woku: iimodeli ezintlanu zefashoni zamadoda, iireyiva zegolide ezintandathu, indawo yokosa inyama, iqula elibandayo lomkhenkce, noBruce Weber ecofa ikhamera yakhe. Esi yayisisiganeko esathi saqalisa iinzame zamva nje zomfoti we-VMAN.
"'I-Thoroughbreds' ligama eligqibeleleyo kula manene mahlanu," utshilo u-Weber weemodeli uBrad Kroenig, u-Andres Velencoso, uTyson Ballou, uJake Davies, kunye noRJ Rogenski. "Banabo bonke obo buhle banabo abaphumeleleyo eDerby kwaye banawo onke laa mandla abatsibi bamahashe osapho lwasebukhosini baseBritane, bebhabha phezulu ngaphaya kweengcingo."
Ngaphezulu kwesithuba seminyaka eyi-15, le quintet ye-Adonises-ongathandabuzekiyo eya kunika u-Zoolander kunye noHansel ukuba baqhube imali yabo kwi-catwalk kunye ne-off-icele wonke umntu ukusuka ku-Mert no-Marcus ukuya ku-Mario Testino; imikhankaso ephambili yezinto ezithandwayo ze-Abercrombie & Fitch (ihlumela elazisa uBrad noTyson kuWeber) kunye neChanel; banyathela iindlela zeenqwelo-moya eParis, eMilan nangaphaya; kwaye yayilawula amaphepha emagazini yefashoni yamadoda yonke onokuyicingela. Banobuhle obungenakwaphulwa kunye neengcali ezigqibeleleyo, kwaye ngamnye uye waba yinxalenye yokwenziwa komoya we-VMAN kunye nobuhle.
UBrad wagubungela umba wokuqala weVMAN. Unyaka wawungowama-2003, kwaye wabuza u-Inez noVinoodh enganxibanga nto ngaphandle kokucwangciswa kwamehlo amnyama aphefumlelwe liqela leebhayisekile zee’70s. Umsebenzi wakhe kolu hlelo lokusungulwa kwamkhokelela ekubeni adibane noKarl Lagerfeld, asele eyimyuziyam kuye ngoku. U-Andres wabonakala ngaphakathi kwaloo mbandela, eqhuma kwi-suit ye-Helmut Lang kunye neqhina, njengoko kwenza u-RJ, owabonisa iindlela ezintathu ezahlukeneyo zokunxiba ijacket ye-F / W '03 efanelekileyo. UTyson wajoyina iqela kwi-VMAN 2, edutyulwe nguSølve Sundsbø ecaleni kukaBrad. U-Jake, okwangoku, wenza i-VMAN yakhe yokuqala ngo-2005 xa samthiya njengelungu le-"New Model Army" kwinqaku lethu lesine. Bonke baye baba yinxalenye yosapho ukususela ngoko.
Ngelixa u-Weber ebhekisa kwesi sityalo njengezityalo eziziintlobo ngeentlobo, “iimodeli ezinkulu” nazo ziya kuba yinkcazelo efanelekileyo. Mhlawumbi yiloo nto u-Weber waphinda waphinda waphinda waphinda walibaleka umfanekiso ka-2008 kaKate Moss, uDaria Werbowy, kunye noLara Stone ebhedini ngobuso obuhlanu. URJ uthi: “Ayizange yenziwe ngaphambili ngokwembono yamadoda, yaye kwakukho le ngcamango yokuba kukho into enkulu eyenzekayo.”
Kukho isizathu, ewe, sokuba uWeber alibize eli bali "Umanyano oluKhulu." Iimodeli ziza kwaye zihamba isizini emva kwesizini, kodwa ezi zintlanu zisebenze kunye isithuba esingaphezulu kweminyaka elishumi. “Azikho iimodeli ezininzi zamadoda ezinokuthi zenze imodeli iminyaka eli-15 ngokuthe ngqo. Yinto enqabileyo, kwaye sonke sinentlonipho enkulu ngomsebenzi wethu,” utshilo uBrad. UJake uyavuma, ephawula ukuba “uninzi lwabafana endaqala nabo abasekho, ngoko kuhle ukukwazi ukusebenza nabafana obaziyo nobabonileyo ehlabathini lonke ngezihlandlo ezahlukahlukeneyo ukutyhubela iminyaka.” UTyson uyavuma ukuba ukudubula akuzange kubonakale njengomsebenzi konke konke. “Kwakufana nokuya kwipati yomhlobo wakho—ukugcakamela ilanga, ukuqubha nokudlala nezinja. Aba bafana kunye nam siwela iindlela rhoqo, kodwa isoloko ngathi akukho xesha lihambileyo. ”
Mhlawumbi kunjalo, kodwa ixesha lidlulile ekubeni la madoda aqala umsebenzi wawo, kwaye ishishini litshintshile. “Baninzi abantu abadumileyo kunye neembaleki zokukhuphisana nabo ngoku,” unikeza uBrad. Singasathethi ke ngokuyilwa kwemithombo yeendaba zentlalo-yavela kwi-Instamodel. URJ ubonisa ukuba “namhlanje, yonke into yenziwe ngedijithali. Unabantu abali-15 abajikeleze isikrini kwaye ngamnye wabo unoluvo. Kuthatha kude kubudlelwane obusondeleyo xa ufota nomfoti ozama ukubamba umzuzu okhethekileyo. " UAndres uyavuma. “Namhlanje, ungajonga isikrini kwikhompyuter, kodwa uBruce yincutshe. Wayefota ifilimu, kwaye yayintle kakhulu. ”
Kuyacaca ukuba iimodeli zimncoma kakhulu uWeber, inkqubo yakhe, kunye nelifa lakhe. Ngokungathandabuzekiyo, iimvakalelo ziyafana. UWeber uthi: “Ukufota kwabo kwakufana nokuya kwindibano yesikolo ndize ndiphinde ndibone abantu endibathandayo. "Ndiyavuya ngokwenene ukuthi bandenza ndibe nelunda."
IIKREDITHI EZONGEZIWEYO
IINWELE UTHOM PRIANO EGARREN NEW YORK YE-R+CO YOKUQEDA UREGINE THORRE IMIZEKELISO JAKE DAVIES AND ANDRES VELENCOSO (FORD), BRAD KROENIG, RJ ROGENSKI, TYSON BALLOU (IMG) PRODUCTION DAWN BOLLER (LITTLE) DOWNS PHOTO, ANC. TAUTRIM, Sean Jackson, Taylor BRINKMAN, Jordan MILLINGTON stylist ABANCEDISI Caroline bembande Halle CHAPMAN Tyler umsiki Lars NORD makeup UMNCEDISI Marlene Castro kwenwele UMNCEDISI LP GIARDINO ZEMVELISO ABANCEDISI BORIS MCNERTNEY, reynaldo HERRERA, LUKA ADLER iNDAWO MONTAUK, NEW YORK yokuhlala MONTAUK Manor KOKUTYA DG KOKUTYA
umthombo: VMAN