'Ukuqhayisa okuvulekileyo' ligama elisetyenziswe zizizukulwana zedijithali ekuboniseni izinto ezisanda kufunyanwa kunye neziqwenga zenkcazo kumajelo asekuhlaleni. Izinto zomona woontanga, zihlala ziyi-esoteric nature: izicathulo, iingxowa, kunye neengubo ezingenakunqweneleka ngokwesiko emehlweni; i-wkward encinci, ibhukuqa kakhulu, okanye imbi-ipholile. Ukuphola kwabo lulwazi loluntu: ukuba uyazi, uyazi. Unokusebenzisa loo ndlela yokusebenza kwizinto ezininzi uMatthew M. Williams aziyilela uGivenchy.
Ukuhlala kwakhe endlwini kubonakala kujolise kwi-Gen Z kunye nabo bazijonga kubo-ubuncinci ukuba iphulo leendaba zoluntu lalo nyaka uphelileyo eliquka abantu abadumileyo kwihlabathi liyinto ehamba ngayo.
"Ekupheleni kosuku, ibuyela kwithuku kunye nento endiyinqwenelayo. Andikho qhinga kangako. Ngethemba ukuba umthengi uyayithanda le nto ndiyithandayo,”
UMateyu M. Williams.
Umyili uthe kumnxeba ovela eParis, kodwa ingqokelela yakhe yesophomore ibonakala ilungelelaniswe nelo candelo leGen Z. I-Silhouettes yayiyigrafiki kwaye ibukhali ngendlela ehambelana imithamo ye-skate-wear kwimigca engaphezulu ye-skate; “micro-macro,” wababiza—ubaxiwe ngokungathi ubonwa ngescreen.
Ubume be-hyper-tactile ngendlela ye-mesmeric yokuba isigqubuthelo sefowuni kwingwenya ye-faux okanye i-neon fuzz yenza ingqondo ifune ukufikelela kwaye iyichukumise. Kwaye izincedisi zazinomgangatho onqabileyo kunye nomfanekiso oqingqiweyo malunga nazo ozenza zikhumbuleke kwaye zifanelekile kwi-Insta, njengento engaphandle kwendawo-kwindawo engalindelekanga.
Yayifakwe kwiidyasi ezinkulu, ezinoboya kunye ne-gilets ehambelana ne-balaclavas-eneempondo, njengexesha elidlulileyo-kunye neemittens ezinkulu ezinoboya njengento ephuma kwinoveli kaJean M. Auel, kodwa mhlawumbi ngakumbi "i-extra-terrestrial," njengoko uWilliams watshoyo ngempuphu yakhe. -njengezihlangu zeqonga, zilungele i-centaur.
Inikwe kwimizi-mveliso yaseParis La Défense Arena (athe umyili wathi yamkhumbuza ngeemvumi zakhe zangaphambili zokunxiba) nezibane zangaphambili zijikeleza ngaphezulu kweentloko zeemodeli ngokungathi zibaleka isosari ephaphazelayo, ingqokelela yayiyi-sci-fi inferno kodwa i-Lockdown-inspired outdoorsy twist sele siyiqhelile kweli xesha lonyaka. Ngapha koko, ukuba umzuzu wethu osisiseko ekuhambeni kwexesha uguqule iingqondo zabaqulunqi ukuba zibe ntle ngaphandle, eli yayilingcwaba elingaphandle-inguqulelo eqinile, ephucukileyo.
Ukuthetha ngezinto ezinzima kunye nezinentsingiselo, amatyathanga aseCuba aphezulu athetha ne-mania yemidiya yoluntu yangoku, ngelixa i-hardware ekuthungeni kunye nokuhombisa kwiilokhwe kuqhubekile nokungquzulana kukaWilliam phakathi kwee-ateliers ze-Givenchy kunye nelizwe lakhe lezoshishino.
“Banenkanuko kwaye banobuhle kwaye babonisa ukuxhotyiswa kwabasetyhini,” utshilo.
Waguqulela obo buntununtunu kutyhilizo lwakhe lokuqala lwekhaphethi ebomvu, kwiilokhwe zasemanzini zangokuhlwa ezidityaniswe nemisonto eqinileyo, eyathi yawela kwimiqukumbelo edlamkileyo njengokuntlitheka kwamaza. Imigca yabo yayibonisa isindululo esiqhubekayo sikaWilliam se-silhouette yabasetyhini, echazwe ngeenombolo ezinithiweyo ze-bodycon okanye iilokhwe zekholamu.Kwiminyaka yokuqala engama-43 yobukho bayo, indlu kaGivenchy yayilisikhumbuzo sokungcamla okulungileyo.
Nangona kunjalo, ngaphandle kwebhokisi, ukusungulwa kwakhona bekuyinxalenye yenxaki. U-Hubert de Givenchy wenza uphawu ngengqokelela yakhe yokuqala ngo-1952: Yayisekelwe kwizahlulo, apho umfazi anokuzixuba aze atshatise kunokuba anxibe ubukhoboka njengoko kubonisiwe ngumyili, kwaye leyo yayiyingcamango yenoveli yexesha.
Ukuba i-couturier yayingoyena mncinane kwindawo yaseParis (kunye ne-6-foot-6 ebukekayo kakhulu) ayizange ibuhlungu kuphononongo lwakhe.
U-Givenchy wathatyathwa phantsi kwephiko lenkosi yaseSpain uCristóbal Balenciaga, kwaye emva koko umsebenzi wakhe wawungacacanga ukuba ungowolutsha.
Yena nomcebisi wakhe bachazwa yiThe New York Times “nje ngokungathandabuzekiyo ngabona bayili beziprofeto ehlabathini.” Ebudeni beli xesha wazisa (kwangaxeshanye noBalenciaga) isinxibo senguqu yekhemisi, okanye ilokhwe erhoxayo, eyanconywa “njengemilo yefashoni entsha ngokwenene.” Ukwabizwa ngokuba nguvulindlela kwi-silhouette ye-princess, kwaye xa i-cinematic sprite u-Audrey Hepburn waqala ukunxiba i-Givenchy's Little Black Dress, igama lakhe ladibaniswa ngonaphakade kunye ne-neckline ye-Sabrina.