U-Demna Gvasalia ubhekane nenganekwane yaseParisian, futhi ukuthatha kwakhe kwakunonya, kunomsindo obukhali njengephunga letiyela eliphuma phansi.
Ukuqoqwa kwamaqoqo ezindikimba zesizini nokulandisa bekungomunye wemibono emikhulu u-Demna Gvasalia ayiletha kumfashini, kanye naku-Balenciaga. Wanikeza lokho i-heave-ho yokuwa, futhi wathela insimu enkulu yetiyela elinephunga elimnandi ukuze abonise umbono wakhe “womuntu waseParis wangempela wanamuhla.” Ukukhanya okukhazimulayo nokufiphele, okulokozayo akuzange kusithe ukuxhamazela kwemfashini enesibindi, evusa amadlingozi, ecishe yaguqa amadolo ezihambeli.
U-Gvasalia uphinde wadedela ama-claptrap amaningi ezingubo zasemgwaqweni ayekade ecatshangwa ukuthi agxile kakhulu ekuthungeni, futhi ama-silhouette anembayo u-Cristóbal Balenciaga aphayona, okuhlanganisa imifece, onodoli bezingane kanye nokwakheka kwe-semifit. “Le ndlu ibe nendaba ende, kodwa umsebenzi wami wukuyenza ibe yesimanje futhi yenze ihehe ikhasimende esinalo namuhla,” esho ngemuva kwesiteji.
Ukumemezela itimu yakhe yaseParis kusenesikhathi engxoxweni enwetshiwe ye-WWD nakho bekuyinto entsha kumklami - kanye nokwazi, uma kubhekwa ukubuya konxiwankulu be-Gallic okudlondlobala enhlokodolobha yaseFrance.
Ukuthatha kwakhe bekukuhlaza, futhi kukhiphe unqenqema oluqinile njengephunga letiyela eliphuma phansi. Ku-Gvasalia, i-Paris akulona idolobha lemfashini eliyinganekwane elimelelwe ezithombeni ze-arch couture zeminyaka Yama-Fifties and Sixties, kodwa idolobha elikhulu elishisayo, elinosizo lwe-grit nolaka. “Amaphethini nomumo kufanekisela imisebenzi evamile yansuku zonke - ukuyothenga igrosa, ukuya emsebenzini ngesithuthuthu, nokuphuma ngemva komsebenzi,” amanothi ombukiso abhalwe phansi.
U-Gvasalia ugcizelele isimangalo sakhe ekubunjweni okungaphezu kobukhulu, ephakamisa abakhukhumezi be-cocoon, ama-kimono amahle kanye nama-shearling amabhande enkomo; usayizi wesiqandisi, amajazi angaphezulu bekamela kanye nebhokisi, amajakhethi ephizi ampunga kuye. Iqoqo lihlehliswe emuva kodwa liyaphoqa, iningi lemidlalo yevolumu igxile emahlombe. Amakhanda emikhono eyihaba ngokubumba okungu-3-D achazwe kabanzi ngombono kaMargiela, kuyilapho ukuphonsela ijoka nemikhono phambili futhi kuhambisana nekholoni kubukeka kusha ngokuphelele, futhi kunikeza umumo oyindilinga opholile, njenge-penumbra. Wasebenzisa lokhu kuma-puffers namajazi ephizi amadoda; namajazi ama-trench amahle abesifazane.
Amajamo amancane ayemade kakhulu; amakholomu aphezulu kakhulu; futhi ahunyushwa ngezindwangu ezivuthayo nemibala elandayo, afinyelela umvuthwandaba ngamajazi e-neon acijile ngosilika we-moire. Ihlaya lomklami elibi liqhamuke nezindandatho ze-Eiffel Tower eziyisipikili, amaphrinti esitolo sezikhumbuzo kanye nezimo zezikhwama zegrosa ezinamaphepha ansundu ezenziwe ngesikhumba futhi zagxivizwa ngophawu olufana nolwe-"bio," noma imikhiqizo ye-organic, e-France. Okuhlekisayo, futhi, kwakuyiziqongo zakusihlwa ezimise okwefaneli nezingubo zephathi ezine-hoop ezungeza emahlombe, evusa u-Pierre Cardin.
Umbukiso ubumude kakhulu kunokujwayelekile, ukhombisa ukuqanjwa okusha kwesithathu: U-Gvasalia ukhipha amaqoqo angaphambili futhi wenze lesi sitatimende sakhe esikhulu ehamba ebusika nasentwasahlobo, ngenkathi egcina amafasitela amaningi okulethwa. Kuzwakale sengathi ulithokozele nethuba lokuveza ngendlela ejulile uthando lwakhe ngenhloko-dolobha yaseFrance, njengoba esefudukele eZurich ngonyaka odlule lapho isinegama lakhe, iVetements, esezinze khona. “Ngokuhamba, ngaphinde ngamthanda uParis,” ecabanga.