'Ukuqhosha okuvulekile' igama elisetshenziswa izizukulwane zedijithali ukukhombisa izinto zokunethezeka ezisanda kutholwa kanye nezingcezu zezitatimende ezinkundleni zokuxhumana. Izinhloso zomona kontanga, ngokuvamile ziyimvelo ye-esoteric: izicathulo, izikhwama, nezingubo ezingezona ngokwesiko ezijabulisayo emehlweni; kancane okungajwayelekile, ukuvukela umbuso, noma kubi-okupholile. Ukuphola kwabo kuwulwazi lomphakathi: uma wazi, uyazi. Ungasebenzisa leyo ndlela yokusebenza ezintweni eziningi u-Matthew M. Williams aziklama i-Givenchy.
Isikhathi sakhe sokuhlala kule ndlu sibonakala sigxile ku-Gen Z nalabo abazibuka kubo-okungenani uma umkhankaso wangonyaka odlule wenkundla yezokuxhumana ohlanganisa osaziwayo abalandelwa kakhulu emhlabeni uyinto engenzeka.
“Ekupheleni kosuku, kubuyela emuva kumqondo wemvelo nalokho engikufisayo. Anginawo amasu kangako. Ngethemba ukuthi ikhasimende liyakuthanda engikuthandayo,”
Matthew M. Williams.
Umqambi uthe ocingweni oluvela eParis, kodwa iqoqo lakhe lesibili libonakala lifanelana naleyo ngxenye yeGen Z. Amasilhouette ayeyingcaca futhi eqinile ngendlela enanela ivolumu yokugqoka kwe-skate emigqeni eminingi yokubhuqa; “micro-macro,” wababiza—enehaba njengokungathi wenzelwa ukubonakala ngesikrini.
I-textures yayi-hyper-tactile ngaleyo ndlela ye-mesmeric yokuthi ikhava yefoni engwenya eyi-faux noma i-neon fuzz yenza ubuchopho bufune ukwelula buyithinte. Futhi izinto ezisetshenziswayo zazinekhwalithi ewumnqamulajuqu mayelana nazo ezenza zikhumbuleke futhi zifanelekele ukufakwa kwe-Insta, njengento engaphandle kwendawo endaweni engalindelekile.
Yayifakwe emajazini amakhulu, anoboya kanye nama-gilets ane-balaclava ehambisanayo—enezimpondo, njengesizini edlule—kanye nezimbuzane ezinoboya ezinkulu njengokuthile okuphuma kunoveli kaJean M. Auel, kodwa mhlawumbe “okungaphezu komhlaba,” njengoba uWilliams asho ngenselo yakhe. -njengezicathulo zesikhulumi, ezilingana ne-centaur.
Yethulwa ku-industrial Paris La Défense Arena (umklami athe imkhumbuze ngabaculi bakhe bangaphambili be-dressing) enamalambu akhanya phezu kwamakhanda amamodeli sengathi abalekela isoso elindizayo, iqoqo beliyi-sci-fi inferno kodwa i-Lockdown-inspired outdoorsy twist esesiyijwayele kule sizini. Eqinisweni, uma umzuzu wethu osekelwe ngokuhamba kwesikhathi uguqule imiqondo yabaklami yaba ngaphandle, leli bekuyithuna elingaphandle-inguqulo eqinile, nesitayela.
Ekhuluma ngezinto ezinzima neziyimfashini, amaketanga aseCuba aphakeme kakhulu akhuluma nesiphithiphithi samanje senkundla yezokuxhumana, kanti i-hardware ekuthungeni nasekuhlobiseni ezingutsheni iqhubekisela phambili ukungqubuzana kukaWilliams phakathi kwabakhiqizi be-Givenchy kanye nomhlaba wakhe wezimboni.
"Zinenkanuko futhi zinhle futhi zikhombisa amandla kwabesifazane," esho.
Wahumusha lokho kuqonda okufanayo ekuphusheni kwakhe kokuqala kukakhaphethi obomvu, ohlotsheni lwezingubo zakusihlwa zasemanzini ezihlotshiswe ngama-sequin aqinile, ajikijela emiphethweni esabekayo njengokuphahlazeka kwamagagasi. Imigqa yabo ikhombisa isiphakamiso esiqhubekayo sika-Williams se-silhouette yabesifazane, evezwe ngezinombolo ze-bodycon ezilukiwe noma izingubo zekholomu.Eminyakeni yokuqala engama-43 yokuba khona kwayo, indlu kaGivenchy yayiyisikhumbuzo sokunambitheka okuhle okuguquguqukayo.
Noma kunjalo, ngaphandle kwebhokisi, ukuqamba kabusha bekuyingxenye yezibalo. U-Hubert de Givenchy wenza umaka ngeqoqo lakhe lokuqala ngo-1952: Lalisekelwe ezintweni ezihlukene, owesifazane akwazi ukuzihlanganisa futhi azifanise kunokuba agqoke ngobugqila njengoba kuboniswa umklami, futhi lowo kwakuwumqondo wenoveli wangaleso sikhathi.
Ukuthi i-couturier yayingomncane kunabo bonke endaweni yesehlakalo sase-Paris (futhi inhle kakhulu engu-6-foot-6) ayizange ilimaze nokubuyekeza kwakhe.
U-Givenchy wathathwa ngaphansi kwephiko lenkosi yaseSpain uCristóbal Balenciaga, kwathi ngemuva kwalokho umsebenzi wakhe waba sobala ukuthi ubusha.
Yena nomeluleki wakhe bachazwa yi-New York Times ngokuthi “ngokungangabazeki abaklami abayiziprofetho emhlabeni wonke.” Phakathi nale nkathi wethula (ngasikhathi sinye no-Balenciaga) i-chemise yenguquko, noma ingubo yesaka, eyaziwa ngokuthi “imfashini entsha ngempela.” Uphinde atuswe ngokuphayona i-princess silhouette, kwathi lapho isihlabani sesinema u-Audrey Hepburn eqala ukugqokisa Ingubo Encane KaGivenchy Emnyama, igama lakhe laxhunyaniswa unomphela ne-neckline kaSabrina.