LONDON, JANUARY 10, 2016
ngu-NICK REEMSEN
I-Moschino kaJeremy Scott iyahlukanisa, kodwa ngokungenakuphikwa iyajabulisa. Ihlaya lakhe elithi Pop-ier, wackier, linoshukela kakhulu kunelikaFranco, kodwa lokho akuyona into embi: UScott umklami oshaya iso lenkunzi lokugxila ekubukeni kwami kwamanje. Konke akubonisayo kungaba yi-Snapchatted noma ku-Instagrammed ngaphandle kokungabaza. Iqoqo alembulile namuhla kusihlwa, endaweni yesonto laseMayfair, belicace bha njengakuqala, nokho bekunobuhlakani obusobala, ngenxa yegalelo lokuhlanganyela elivela kubaculi be-agitprop baseBrithani uGilbert & George.
“Ngangifuna ukugqoka izingubo ezigcwele kakhulu, ngakho ngangiphuza nabo itiye,” kusho uScott. “Futhi njengoba ngibatshela imibono yami mayelana nokuqoqwa kweqoqo, bathi, ‘Kungani ningakhiphi kule nqolobane yethu?’ Ngakho kusukela eziphambanweni kuya emakhanda kuya eziqubulweni [ezavela ngokushesha futhi zithukuthele kuyo yonke into] kwakukhona. izinto eziningi ezinhle engikwazile ukuzifaka.” Ngokusobala, izithombe ze-G&G ezinothe ngemibala ziye zadala enye i-tsunami ye-chromatic ebuchosheni buka-Scott obuhlale bucabanga—iqoqo lakhe le-Fall laliwuthingo lwe-druggy, i-rave-y neon, kuze kufike kumadlebe apendwe nge-fluorescent namakhofu. (Indawo yesonto yakhumbuza i-Limelight, iklabhu yasebusuku yase-Manhattan yama-'90s nayo eyayisesontweni, futhi abanye babo ababegqokiswa nguScott.) I-Denim yayinomuthi wokugcoba ngopende wokufutha, owawugoqwa nemithungo (cabanga nge-trompe l). 'i-oeil egqokwa yi-nineties clubkids). Amabhuzu esitayela sikaDkt. Martens amangalisayo, okusikiwe kwawo asebenze njengesimemo sombukiso, athole i-graffiti efanayo. Imivimbo yamaCollegiate nayo yayisetshenzwa kusenesikhathi, kungaba ngesikhafu noma ishethi, iboleka into edabukisayo ye-preppy.
Ngandlela thize-futhi lokhu kuyisihlobo uma kucatshangelwa ukucasuka kukaScott-kwakukhona nomugqa wegazi oyisisekelo ezingutsheni. “Izimo eziningi zilula, futhi ngenze ama-collaging amaningi,” kusho yena. “Cishe njengezingubo ezihlanganiswe ndawonye—njengejezi elilukiwe elinemikhono engu-MA-1.” I-Collage nayo ingashiwo ku-Gilbert & George: U-Jourdan Dunn-owahamba njengengxenye ye-Pre-Fall yabesifazane base-Moschino, eyaboniswa ngesikhathi esifanayo-egqoke ijakhethi ye-aviator ene-hood enephaneli elihlanganisiwe elifakwe phansi ngemuva kanye nemikhono enezigxivizo zesiqubulo. (Kwezinye izindawo, isibonelo esisodwa esiphawulekayo salokho kwakuyi-SPUNK, eyayifake ama-shin amajini). U-Lucky Blue Smith uvule futhi wavala umbukiso ku-Lisa Frank brights, kodwa i-silhouette nezinye izingcezu eziningi zaziqondile: isudi ngaphambili, kanye nomsele wokuyizungeza.
Eno-Neneh Cherry, Noomi Rapace, Lucky, Jourdan, kanye no-Taboo we-Black Eyed Peas esandleni, uScott, ngokuvamile, ulethe udumo oluncane nama-flashbulbs kumaqoqo ase-London: Amadoda. Futhi uthanda ungathandi, leyo ingxenye enkulu yephakeji yakhe, uhlobo oluthile lwe-Pop curation, nokugabadela ngenxa yokuzijabulisa. Njengoba isiphetho sidlula, i-remix ka-Michel Gaubert ethi "Like A Prayer" kaMadonna yangena iqhuma-futhi emgqeni, "wonke umuntu kufanele ame yedwa," awukwazanga ukuzibamba. UScott uyimpisi yodwa ngokuqinisekile, kodwa uzibuthe wakhe usho ukuthi uzohlala ephethe iphakethe.