MILAN, Lub Ib Hlis 16, 2016
los ntawm ALEXANDER FURY
Chaw pw hav zoov. Qhov ntawd yog lub ntsiab lus ntawm Donatella Versace's Fall 2016 sau. Yam tsawg kawg nws zoo li ntawd, vim nws yog undoubtedly spaced-tawm, thiab undeniably camp. Tus qub yog txhob txwm. "Kev ua si nawv thiab chaw," said Ms. Versace, piav qhia tias yog vim li cas ib nrab ntawm lub kaum ob tus qauv ua Running Man-style sprints hauv fiber optic-threaded kis las iav los qhib qhov yeeb yam. Lawv muaj roj teeb hauv, nws hais. Nws tsis meej yog tias lawv tuaj koom.
Raws li rau lub camp? Nws yog ib qho nyuaj kom paub tseeb tias ntau npaum li cas nudge-nudge, wink-wink yog mus thaum Donatella yog tsim; ntau npaum li cas nws yeej paub provoking nws cov neeg tuaj saib. Rau ntau tus txiv neej, Versace yog qhov tau txais saj. Uas muab nws maj mam. Muaj ib tug zoo tranche ntawm lawv uas xav kom tua nyob rau hauv qhov chaw dua muab tso rau ntawm lawv nraub qaum. Tab sis - thiab, raws li ib tug neeg twg uas tau sim wriggle mus rau hauv ib khub ntawm lub tsev lub ris yuav qhia rau koj, "tab sis" yog txhua yam tseem ceeb ntawm Versace - muaj ntau tus txiv neej uas tsis npau suav ntawm hnav lwm yam. Versace cov khaub ncaws ua lag luam ua lag luam kwv yees li ib nrab ntawm nws cov khoom lag luam, thiab nws tsuas yog nce mus.
Tej zaum cov duab skyrocketing tshwm sim Donatella Versace lub intergalactic mus txawv tebchaws. "Kuv tab tom xav txog yav tom ntej," hais tias peroxided. "Qhov no yog qhov kawg qhia txog yav tom ntej: qhov chaw." Rau ntau, nws yog qhov kawg ciam teb; rau Donatella, nws tsuas yog lwm qhov kev xaiv khaub ncaws. Nws tau ntim nrog lub davhlau tsho strapped thiab zippered zoo li qhov chaw suits; nrog suctioned leggings; buckled scuba khau ntaub; nrog rau lub puab tsaig-puab lub puab tsaig, tus phab ej Himbos noj lawv cov dhia loj heev rau noob neej mus rau txoj kev khiav hauv cov tsho festooned nrog NASA-Versace qhov chaw paib qhia txog lub tsev Medusa lub taub hau hauv cov hnub qub thiab Bruce Weber hunkologies. Lub cosmos yog ib tug xoob cawv, tshwm sim los ntawm zodiac-inspired prints nyob rau hauv lub archives. Thiab nyob rau hauv plaub-hnub lub sij hawm uas zam tau poob ob qhov tseem ceeb qhov chaw-haiv neeg style kev tshoov siab-tsis yog Bowie nkaus xwb, tab sis André Courrèges-Versace lub ntuj-gazing xav tias prescient.
Nws tsis xav tias tshwj xeeb tshaj yog futuristic tab sis, mired raws li nws yog, hnyav, nyob rau hauv ob lub pob zeb-lub xub pwg nyom silhouette thiab sci-fi fantasies ntawm Thierry Mugler. Tus qub tsis yog lub galaxy nyob deb deb ntawm qhov Versace txiv neej xav hnav, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog thaum cov nyhuv cosmonaut tau muab los ntawm ib qho yooj yim Perfecto nrog lub hauv siab dav hauv cov tawv silvered los yog snowy sheepskin. Ib ntu ntawm cov qauv hauv cov xim dawb zoo li cov khoom siv dag zog los ntawm cov yeeb yaj kiab cuaj caum tus tub-band thiab cov khoom siv arcane-cov paib hlau, cov hnab yas-coated thiab siv-yog Trekkie, techy, thiab me ntsis tacky.
Cov xim palette yog bold thiab futuristic - futuristic nyob rau hauv uas ib lub sij hawm tseem tsis tau los thaum feem coob ntawm cov txiv neej yuav hnov zoo tag nrho clad nyob rau hauv ntau yam macaroon hues ntawm pastel. Tseem Versace cov neeg siv khoom yog cov txiv neej siab tawv tshaj plaws, hais lus sartorially, thiab tej zaum yuav muab lub tsho lavender cashmere, me nyuam mos xiav rip-cord nylon trouser, los yog lub tsho tiv no nyob rau hauv uas oddly identifiable prophylactic ntxoov ntxoo ntawm liab mus.
Qhov teeb meem nrog Versace menswear yog tias nws txawv txav - tsis muaj pun rau cov khoom sab nrauv. Cov yeeb yam styling, uas feem ntau hnyav-tes nws qhia lub gravitational rub ntawm lub ntiaj teb sib txawv, tsis tshua pom qhov tseeb tias ntau tus txiv neej tuaj yeem hnav nws ntau. Txawm tias lub sij hawm no, ib sab ntawm lub teeb-up sweatpants thiab nqa-thiab-sib cais leggings, muaj cov khoom muaj rau mere mortals, ib yam nkaus thiab: tawv nqaij, sensible tailoring; lub caij nyoog nyiam MA1 foob pob (feem ntau inlaid nrog archive Versace astrology print silk); Cov tsho loj mackintosh uas zoo li tig mus rau sab nraub qaum, nthuav tawm cov duab kos duab zoo kawg nkaus (xws li, hnav koj lub tsho thiab cov tsho sab hauv tawm yog ib qho qauv hauv Milan sib npaug hauv qhov tsis zoo los ntawm nws qhov chaw nyob). Tias tag nrho cov suab zoo li yog vim li cas txaus los mus rau lub taub hau Medusa lub caij nplooj zeeg. Tom qab tag nrho, dab tsi txiv neej tsis ua npau suav ntawm ua ib tug astronaut thaum nws tseem me me?