LOS ANGELES, 11 GASHYANTARE 2016
na HAMISH BOWLES
Byari ibibera muri salle ya Palladium kuri Sunset Boulevard kuri uyu mugoroba ubwo Hedi Slimane yatwaraga Saint Laurent we mu mujyi wa Angels akunda cyane. Icupa ryumuhondo Justin Bieber yazanye skateboard, naho Sly Stallone azana abakobwa be. Ellen DeGeneres yifatanije na Sam Smith, na Gaga, mu gisasu cya zahabu gikurikiranye hamwe na kirahure cya zahabu ya Groucho Marx, bahambiriye ku rubyiniro rugari kugira ngo basuhuze Urukundo rwa Courtney, yambaye urupapuro rwa pewter lamé rwashyize umushyitsi we mwiza. cyane sur le balcon. Jane Fonda udasaza (ashobora kuba afite imyaka 78?) Yakoraga igorofa yo hejuru yubufaransa hamwe na tux ikwiye; Lenny Kravitz yajugunye igituza cyamasaro; Asia Chow yari yambaye ikoti ya denim hejuru yimyenda ya tulle prom; na Mark Ronson bahisemo ibara ryijimye.
Slimane yahinduye Los Angeles ibirindiro kuva mu 2008 (yimuye sitidiyo ye nyuma yimyaka ine), kandi yakomeje kunyura mu mujyi wa vintage, ibisumizi bya grunge na rock 'n' vibe mu byegeranyo bye bya Saint Laurent kuva icyo gihe - kimwe na Yves Uwera Laurent ubwe yari afite Marrakech, umujyi wa Adobe umujyi wijimye wijimye aho couturier wamamaye yasubiwemo imbaraga kandi ahumekewe ubwo yavumburaga ko ibara ryiza ryumujyi rivanze, ibintu bihindura ibitekerezo, hamwe na hippie de luxe yuburyo bwiza. Byari ibyiringiro bishimishije rero gutumirwa gutera ikirenge mu cya Slimane no kumenya impamvu yaguye muburyo bwo kureshya Los Angeles ubwo yahisemo kwerekana icyegeranyo cye cyabagabo Fall 2016, naho igice cya I cyabagore be (Igice cya II kizashyirwa ahagaragara i Paris nyuma iki gihe cyimyambarire) kuri Palladium. Yatsimbaraye ku mugani wa Tinseltown, yubatswe mu buryo bwa Hollywood Moderne yo hejuru ku kibanza cya Paramount ishaje, maze ifungura mu 1940 hamwe na Tommy Dorsey na orchestre ye bakorana n’umuhanzi w’imyaka 24 witwa Frank Sinatra.
Slimane yoga mu cyumba cy’ibitaramo cya kaburimbo ya kaburimbo hamwe na balkoni mu mucyo ugurumana kandi ashyira ibikoresho bya bande bitandukanye inyuma y’ibiti by'imikindo byoroshye, bishushanyije neza mu mweru-umukara na Lucia Ribisi w'imyaka 18 ( umukobwa wumukinnyi Giovanni Ribisi). Icyegeranyo cya 93-cyanizihije isabukuru yimyaka 50 Yive Saint Laurent yakusanyije Rive Gauche, kandi isura yubashye umurage we. Abakobwa, basimbukiye kuri PyPy “Yagiye,” bose bari bambaye imyenda yuburebure bwa midi cyangwa amakariso hamwe n’imyenda ya Victoriana yatoneshejwe na Loulou de La Falaise hafi ya za 70, zuzuye umukandara mugari, amakoti yagabanutse. , cyangwa Berber capes yambaraga nabo. Isura kandi yatumije imyenda ya Jane Fonda yambaye imyenda yo mu rwego rwo hejuru yo guhamagara umukobwa wo mu rwego rwo hejuru muri Alan J. Pakula yerekana imiterere-yuzuye ya firime ya 1971, Klute (niko nogukora imisatsi Didier Malige yogosha). Glam rock ikoraho - nkibishushanyo byumurabyo hamwe nigitugu cyo hejuru - byerekanaga imyambarire ya Ziggy Stardust ikomeye ya David Bowie.
Hagati aho, abahungu ba asparagus bambaye ubusa, bambaraga umukono wa Slimane batewe kuri jeans, cyangwa ipantaro yaciwe uruhu hamwe n'umutwe wa gisirikare hepfo, kandi bashushanya neza amakoti ya Hussar, nkibya kera byahoze bifuza nka Mick Jagger na Jimi Hendrix (ibyinshi mubisa byari byanditseho nta shusho-nyamuneka inyenyeri yizuba). Hano hari velheti na brocade, na jabots na fedora, hamwe namakoti byari bifatanye nudushushanyo twa Paris, byose byashyizwe hamwe kugirango twerekane ishusho yikigereranyo cya Los Angeleno, umunyamideli numukunzi wa NBA James Goldstein. Icyegeranyo cyari ibaruwa y'urukundo yandikiwe umujyi Slimane. Jeffrey Deitch, wagombye kumenya ibihangano iyo abibonye yagize ati: "Icyo cyari igihangano mu buryo bwose." Ati: "Hariho byinshi byo gukorana!" aseka Lenny Kravitz.
Nyuma yuko Slimane asanzwe afata umuheto we (mwikoti ya velheti ya rubavu, afite umusatsi muremure wa Oscar Wilde), urubyiniro rwarimo ubwiza bwabana bato. Lisa Eisner yagize ati: "Sinari nzi ko muri Los Angeles hari abantu benshi beza, bafite ikibuno." Hagati aho, narimo mbona aside igaruka ku ngoro ya Camden, 1982, hamwe na Steve Strange ku muryango na Boy George hasi, nkikijwe nkanjye ubu nabaga ndi mu bahungu bakurura Brassaï, cyangwa ijipo ya ra-ra, umukobwa wambaye nka a zaftig Ophelia, Linda Ramone hejuru yuburebure bwa metero eshatu yera ya Mad Hatter yera, hamwe nigituba cyabahungu-basa, bafite imisatsi-yuzuye imisatsi muri tweedy wongeyeho bane basaga, neza, neza nkuwawe Mubyukuri - ibyiza byangiriye neza, birashoboka? mubyukuri kuba hashize imyaka 35?
Hanyuma intebe zarahanaguwe kandi stade yatwitswe na Padiri John Misty - uwambere mu bahanzi 11, buri wese akora indirimbo eshatu cyangwa enye. Beck yakurikiranye (bisanzwe), hanyuma Joan Jett yurira kuri stade yambaye injangwe itukura kandi yuzuye imyifatire ya pank, maze amanura inzu hamwe na "Nkunda Rock 'n' Roll." Birababaje cyane, Joan. Agasanduku k'ababyinnyi ba pole bo mu cyumba cya Clown cya Jumbo (bategereje kuririmbana na Allah-Las kandi bambaye bikini ya rhinestone yambaye bikini) basohotse mu byumba byabo bambara kandi bahinda umushyitsi. Ati: “Urakoze, Hedi, kuba warakoze imyenda myiza!” avuza induru Jett, abantu baratontoma.