E-LOS ANGELES, FEBRUARY 11, 2016
ngu-HAMish BOWLES
Bekuyisimo esimangalisayo ehholo lekhonsathi i-Palladium e-Sunset Boulevard namhlanje ebusuku lapho u-Hedi Slimane ehambisa u-Saint Laurent wakhe omangalisayo e-City of Angels yakhe alithandayo. Ibhodlela blonde u-Justin Bieber waletha i-skateboard yakhe, futhi u-Sly Stallone waletha amadodakazi akhe. U-Ellen DeGeneres wahlangana no-Sam Smith, kanye noGaga, ngebhomu legolide le-sequin kanye nezingilazi ze-Groucho Marx ezinopende olusagolide, bawela umgwaqo wezindiza obanzi ophansi ukuze babingelele u-Courtney Love, egqoke isiliphu se-pewter lamé esincibilikisiwe esibeke i-belle poitrine yakhe. kakhulu ku-balcony. U-Jane Fonda ongenabudala (angaba kanjani neminyaka engama-78?) usebenze i-pleat yase-French ephakeme kakhulu kanye ne-tux e-spangled inkanyezi ngokufanelekile; U-Lenny Kravitz wanyakazisa isivikelo sesifuba esinobuhlalu; U-Asia Chow wayegqoke ijakhethi yedenim phezu kwengubo ye-prom ye-tulle enamagwebu; no-Mark Ronson bakhethe ukubomvana okuthusayo.
USlimane wenze i-Los Angeles isizinda sakhe kusukela ngo-2008 (wathuthela istudiyo sakhe lapha eminyakeni emine kamuva), futhi uqhubekile nokuhambisa i-vintage yedolobha epholile, i-grunge epholishiwe kanye ne-rock 'n' roll vibe emaqoqweni akhe aseSaint Laurent kusukela ngaleso sikhathi-nje asYves. U-Saint Laurent ngokwakhe wayene-Marrakech, idolobha lase-Morocco elipinki le-adobe lapho i-couturier edumile yavuselelwa futhi yakhuthazeka lapho ithola imiksi yemibala egqamile yalelo dolobha, izinto ezishintsha ingqondo, kanye nombono omusha we-hippie de luxe ngesitayela. Ngakho-ke bekuyithemba elijabulisayo ukumenywa ukuthi ungene emhlabeni kaSlimane futhi uthole ukuthi kungani athanda isitayela sokuyenga sase-Los Angeles lapho enquma ukukhombisa iqoqo lakhe labesilisa le-Fall 2016, kanye nengxenye I yabesifazane bakhe (Ingxenye II izodalulwa eParis ngokuhamba kwesikhathi. kule nkathi yemfashini) ePalladium enezindaba. Igxile kunganekwane yase-Tinseltown, yakhiwe ngesitayela esiphakeme saseHollywood Moderne esizeni se-Paramount lot endala, futhi yavulwa ngo-1940 no-Tommy Dorsey ne-orchestra yakhe becula nomzwilili oneminyaka engu-24 ubudala uFrank Sinatra.
U-Slimane ugeze uphahla olugobile lwehholo lekhonsathi novulandi ngokukhanya okusawolintshi okuvutha amalangabi futhi wafaka ifreyimu amathuluzi ebhendi ahlukahlukene ngokumelene nokwasemuva obukekayo “we-Hollywoodland” wezihlahla zesundu ezigobile, ezipendwe kahle ngokumnyama ngokumnyama ngu-Lucia Ribisi oneminyaka engu-18 ( indodakazi yomlingisi uGiovanni Ribisi). Iqoqo elibukekayo elingama-93 liphinde labungaza iminyaka engu-50 yeqoqo lika-Yves Saint Laurent's Rive Gauche, futhi ukubukeka kwanikeza inhlonipho ecashile efeni lakhe. Amantombazane, aphumele obala abheke kwekaPyPy ethi “She's Gone,” wonke ayegqoke uhlobo lweziketi noma ama-culotte amade-midi kanye nezingubo zika-Victoriana ezithandwa u-Loulou de La Falaise ekupheleni kweminyaka yawo-'70s, egcwele amabhande abanzi, amajakhethi ashwabene. , noma amakepisi akwaBerber ayewagqoka nawo. Ukubukeka kuphinde kwavusa ikhabethe likaJane Fonda elihle njengentombazane eshayela ucingo esezingeni eliphezulu kufilimu ka-Alan J. Pakula egcwele isitayela yango-1971, i-Klute (kwenze njalo nokugundwa kwe-shag-cut komlungisi wezinwele u-Didier Malige). Ukuthinta kwe-glam rock—njengemifekethiso yombani namahlombe aphakeme—kuphakamise imvunulo ka-David Bowie enethonya elinamandla le-Ziggy Stardust.
Abafana abancane be-asparagus, bona, babegqoke isignesha ka-Slimane yejini efuthwe, noma ibhulukwe eli-skinny-cut elinomugqa wezempi phansi eceleni, futhi bahlobise kahle amabhantshi akwa-Hussar, afana nalawo asendulo ake afiswa abafana noMick Jagger noJimi Hendrix. (okuningi kokubukeka bekuklanywe ngezibuko zelanga ezingenazo izithombe-sicela i-rock star). Kwakukhona ama-velvets nama-brocade, nama-jabots nama-fedora, namajakhethi ahlanganiswe nemifekethiso yase-Paris, konke kuhlanganiswe ukuze kuphakanyiswe ukubukeka kwesithonjana kwalowo quintessential u-Los Angeleno, i-rocker yemfashini kanye nomshisekeli we-NBA u-James Goldstein. Iqoqo bekuyincwadi yothando eya edolobheni iSlimane adores. “Lokho kwakuwucezu lobuciko ngazo zonke izindlela,” kuphawula uJeffrey Deitch, okufanele azi ubuciko lapho ebubona. “Kuningi engizosebenza nakho!” ahleke uLenny Kravitz.
Ngemuva kokuthi u-Slimane ojwayele ukujwayelana ethathe umnsalo wakhe (egqoke ijakhethi yevelvethi yerubi, enezinwele ezinde zika-Oscar Wilde), indawo yokudansa yahlaselwa onobuhle abancane. “Bengingazi ukuthi baningi kangaka abantu abahle, abangamahip-hip e-Los Angeles,” kusho uLisa Eisner, futhi ngiweseka lowo muzwa. Phakathi naleso sikhathi, ngangibona i-asidi ebuyela emuva eCamden Palace, ngo-1982, nginoSteve Strange emnyango noBoy George ephansi, ngizungezwe abafana ababegqoke iziketi ze-ra-ra, intombazane egqoke okokugqoka. u-zaftig Ophelia, uLinda Ramone ogqoke i-Mad Hatter topper emhlophe engamamitha amathathu ubude, kanye negebenga labafana abanobuso obungafihli, abanezinwele ezimhloshana abagqoke i-tweedy kanye nabane ababukeka, kahle, ncamashi njengoba kwenza Owakho Ngempela—ukulunga kungenzela umusa, kungenzeka. ngempela kube eminyakeni engu-35 edlule?
Kwabe sekususwa amabhentshi kwashiswa inkundla nguFata John Misty—owayengowokuqala kwabangu-11, ngamunye ecula izingoma ezintathu noma ezine. U-Beck walandela (ongajwayelekile), wabe u-Joan Jett egibela esiteji egqoke i-catsuit ebomvu egqagqene kanye nesimo sengqondo se-punk, futhi wehlisa indlu ngokuthi “I Love Rock ’n’ Roll.” Kuhle kakhulu, Joan. Igebenga labadansi bezigxobo be-Jumbo’s Clown Room (abalinde ukucula ne-Allah-Las futhi begqoke amabhikini amancane ane-rhinestone) baphuma ezindlini zabo zokugqoka futhi benyakazisa izimpiko. “Ngiyabonga, Hedi, ngokwenza izingubo ezinhle kangaka!” kumemeza uJett, kwahlokoma isixuku.