I-Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2016 Menswear

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Saint Laurent FW 2016 Menswear

ELOS ANGELES, FEBRUWARI 11, 2016

ngu-HAMish ZIBHUKU

Ibiyinto eyenzeka kwiholo yekonsathi yasePalladium eSunset Boulevard ngokuhlwanje xa uHedi Slimane wayehambisa iSaint Laurent yakhe enomtsalane kwisiXeko sakhe asithandayo seeNgelosi. Ibhotile eblonde uJustin Bieber weza nebhodi yakhe yokutyibiliza, kwaye uSly Stallone weza neentombi zakhe. U-Ellen DeGeneres wadibana noSam Smith, kunye noGaga, kwibhombu yegolide esequin kunye neeglasi zeGroucho Marx ezimenyezelayo, bebotshelelwe kumgaqo weenqwelomoya obanzi onomgangatho obanzi wokudanisa bebulisa uCourtney Love, enxibe isiliphu se-pewter lamé etyhidiweyo ebeke i-belle poitrine yakhe. kakhulu kwi-balcony. UJane Fonda oneminyaka engama-78 ubudala (unokuba neminyaka engama-78?) wasebenza i-French-plaat ephezulu kunye ne-tux eneenkwenkwezi ezifanelekileyo; ULenny Kravitz wanyikimisa isigcina-sifuba esinamaso; UAsia Chow wayenxibe ibhatyi yedenim ngaphezulu kwelokhwe yeprom ye-tulle; kwaye uMark Ronson wakhetha ipinki eyothusayo.

USlimane wenze iLos Angeles isiseko sakhe ukusukela ngo-2008 (wafudusela istudiyo sakhe apha kwiminyaka emine kamva), kwaye uqhubekeka nokusasaza iidiliya ezinqabileyo zesixeko, igrunge epholisiweyo kunye ne-rock 'n' roll vibe kwiingqokelela zakhe zaseSaint Laurent ukusukela oko-nje njengoYves. USaint Laurent ngokwakhe wayeneMarrakech, isixeko esipinki se-adobe saseMorocco apho i-couturier eyintsomi yavuselelwa yaza yaphefumlelwa xa yafumanisa ukuba imixube yombala wesixeko, izinto ezitshintsha ingqondo, kunye nembono entsha ye-hippie de luxe kwisitayile. Ke yayilithemba elichulumancisayo ukumenywa ukuba ungene kwihlabathi likaSlimane kwaye ufumanise ukuba kutheni wawela isitayile saseLos Angeles xa wayethatha isigqibo sokubonisa ingqokelela yakhe yamadoda ekwindla ka-2016, kunye neCandelo lokuQala labafazi bakhe (Icandelo II liya kutyhilwa eParis kamva. ngeli xesha lefashoni) kwiPalladium enembali. Ifakwe kwintsomi yaseTinseltown, yakhiwe kwisitayile esiphakamileyo saseHollywood Moderne kwindawo yeParamount lot yakudala, yavulwa ngo-1940 kunye noTommy Dorsey kunye neokhestra yakhe edlala nemvumi eneminyaka engama-24 ubudala uFrank Sinatra.

USlimane uhlambe isilingi egobileyo yeholo yeholo kunye neebhalkhoni kwisibane esidangazelayo esiorenji kwaye wenza isakhelo sezixhobo zamabhendi ahlukeneyo ngokuchasene nomgangatho obukekayo “waseHollywood” wemithi yesundu ephothiweyo, epeyintwe ngobuchule bumhlophe-emnyameni nguLucia Ribisi oneminyaka eli-18 ubudala ( intombi yomdlali we-actor Giovanni Ribisi). Ingqokelela yembonakalo engama-93 iphinde yabhiyozela iminyaka engama-50 yengqokelela kaYves Saint Laurent yeRive Gauche, kwaye inkangeleko ihlawula imbeko efihlakeleyo kwilifa lakhe. Amantombazana, agqithela kwiPyPy's "She's Go," onke ayenxibe uhlobo lwemidi-length skirts okanye culottes kunye neelokhwe zeVictoriana ezithandwa nguLoulou de La Falaise kwi-cusp ye'70s, zizaliswe ngamabhanti abanzi, iibhatyi ezishwabeneyo. , okanye iikepesi zeBerber awayezinxiba nazo. Inkangeleko iphinde yavusa ikhabethe entle kaJane Fonda njengentombazana yodidi oluphezulu efowunelayo kumboniso bhanyabhanya ka-Alan J. Pakula owahlutha isimbo sika-1971, uKlute (wenjenjalo umlungisi weenwele uDidier Malige's choppy shag-cuts). Ilitye elikhazimlayo elichukumisayo-njengombane ohonjisiweyo kunye namagxa aphakamileyo-ucebisa isinxibo sikaDavid Bowie esinamandla seZiggy Stardust.

Abafana ababhinqileyo be-asparagus, ngelo xesha, banxibe utyikityo lukaSlimane olutshiziweyo, okanye ibhulukhwe ebhityileyo enomtya wasemkhosini ecaleni, kwaye ihonjiswe ngokucokisekileyo iibhatyi zeHussar, ezifana nezakudala zakha zanqwenelwa ngabafana noMick Jagger noJimi Hendrix. (uninzi lwenkangeleko zenziwe ngesitayile esingenamifanekiso-nceda iiglasi zelanga zerock). Bekukho iivelvethi kunye neebrocades, kunye neejabots kunye neefedoras, kunye neebhatyi ezihonjiswe ngemihombiso yaseParis, zonke zidityanisiwe ukucebisa inkangeleko ye-icon ye-quintessential ye-Los Angeleno, i-rocker yefashoni kunye nomthandi we-NBA uJames Goldstein. Ingqokelela yayiyileta yothando eya kwisixeko Slimane adores. “Olo yayilucwecwe lobugcisa ngandlela zonke,” wachaza uJeffrey Deitch, ofanele ukwazi ubugcisa xa ebubona. "Kuninzi endifuna ukusebenza nako!" wahleka uLenny Kravitz.

Emva kokuba u-Slimane owayedla ngokuziphindaphinda ethabathe isaphetha sakhe (kwibhatyi yevelvethi yerubhi, eneenwele ezinde zika-Oscar Wilde), umgangatho womdaniso wabanjwa ngoonobuhle abancinci. “Bendingazi ukuba baninzi kangaka abantu abahle, abahlengayo eLos Angeles,” utshilo uLisa Eisner, kwaye ndiyiphinda loo mvakalelo. Ebudeni belo xesha, ndandibona iasidi ebuyela umva kwiCamden Palace, ngowe-1982, kukho uSteve Strange elucangweni noBoy George ephantsi, engqongwe njengamakhwenkwe eBrassaï erhuqa, okanye iziketi zera-ra, intombazana enxibe njenge u-zaftig Ophelia, uLinda Ramone kwi-topper emhlophe ye-Mad Hatter eneenyawo ezintathu ubude, kunye ne-gaggle-faced-faced, amakhwenkwe aneenwele ze-floppy e-tweedy kunye nezine ezikhangeleka, kakuhle, kanye njengokuba uWenzile ngokwenene-ukulunga kwam, ingaba ngokwenene ukuba 35 kwiminyaka eyadlulayo?

Emva koko iibhentshi zavulwa kwaye iqonga latshiswa nguBawo uJohn Misty-ongowokuqala kwabadlali abali-11, ngamnye wenza iingoma ezintathu okanye ezine. U-Beck walandela (ngokungaqhelekanga), emva koko u-Joan Jett wakhwela eqongeni enxibe i-catsuit ebomvu ephihliweyo kunye nesimo sengqondo se-punk, kwaye wayihlisa indlu ngo-"I Love Rock 'n' Roll." Ulungile kakhulu, Joan. Umgidi wabadanisi bepali abasuka kwiJumbo’s Clown Room (belinde ukucula no-Allah-Las kwaye benxibe iibhikini zerhinestone) baphuma kumagumbi abo okunxiba kwaye beshukuma emaphikweni. “Enkosi, Hedi, ngokwenza iimpahla ezintle ngolu hlobo!” wakhwaza uJett, satsho sagquma isihlwele.

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