LOS ANGELES, FEBRUARY 11, 2016
naHAMish BOWLES
Changa chiri chiitiko chaicho paPalladium konzati horo paSunset Boulevard manheru ano apo Hedi Slimane akatakura Saint Laurent wake zvinoyevedza kuenda kuGuta rake raanoda reNgirozi. Bhodhoro blonde Justin Bieber akaunza skateboard yake, uye Sly Stallone akaunza vanasikana vake. Ellen DeGeneres akabatana naSam Smith, naGaga, mune bhomba regoridhe rakanyungudutswa uye magirazi egoridhe anopenya Groucho Marx, akasungirirwa pamharadzano yekutamba-pasi nzira yekukwazisa Courtney Love, akapfeka slip yeakanyungudutswa pewter lamé akaisa belle poitrine yake. zvakanyanya sur le balcon. Jane Fonda asina zera (angave ane makore makumi manomwe nemasere sei?) akashanda kuchembera kwechiFrench kwepamusoro uye tux yakakwenenzverwa nenyeredzi; Lenny Kravitz akazunza chidzitiro chechipfuva; Asia Chow aipfeka jekete redenim pamusoro pedhirezi refrothy tulle prom; uye Mark Ronson akasarudza pink inokatyamadza.
Slimane akaita Los Angeles hwaro hwake kubvira 2008 (akatamisa studio yake pano makore mana gare gare), uye akaenderera mberi nekufambisa mazambiringa eguta rekare, grunge yakakwenenzverwa uye rock 'n' roll vibe muunganidzwa wake weSaint Laurent kubva ipapo-saYves. Saint Laurent pachake aive neMarrakech, Morocco yepink adobe guta uko ane mukurumbira couturier akavandudzwa uye akafemerwa paakaona iro guta rine ruvara rwemusanganiswa weruvara, zvinhu zvinoshandura pfungwa, uye chimiro chitsva chemuhippie de luxe pamaitiro. Saka yaive tarisiro inonakidza kukokwa kuti apinde munyika yaSlimane uye kuona kuti sei akawira muLos Angeles maitiro ekunyengedza paakafunga kuratidza muunganidzwa wake weFall 2016 varume, uye Chikamu chekutanga chevakadzi vake (Chikamu II chichavhurwa muParis gare gare. mwaka uno wemafashoni) paPalladium ine stori. Yakanyura mungano yeTinseltown, yakavakwa mumhando yepamusoro yeHollywood Moderne panzvimbo yekare Paramount lot, uye yakavhurwa muna 1940 naTommy Dorsey neorchestra yake vachitamba nemuimbi ane makore makumi maviri nemana Frank Sinatra.
Slimane akagezesa masirin'i eimba yekonsati uye mabharukoni muchiedza chinopfuta cheorenji uye akagadzira midziyo yemabhendi akasiyana-siyana achitarisana neinoyevedza ye“Hollywoodland” yemiti yemichindwe, yakapendwa zvakanaka nechena-pa-dema naLucia Ribisi ane makore 18 (18). mwanasikana wemutambi Giovanni Ribisi). Muunganidzwa wemakumi mapfumbamwe nematatu wakapembererawo makore makumi mashanu ekuunganidzwa kwaYves Saint Laurent's Rive Gauche, uye chitarisiko chakapa rukudzo rwakajeka kune nhaka yake. Vasikana, vakabuda vachienda kuPyPy "Aenda," vese vaive vakapfeka masiketi akareba-midi kana culottes uye mapfekero eVictoriana aifarirwa naLoulou de La Falaise pakupera kwema'70s, akazara nemabhandi akafara, majaketi akaomeswa. , kana kuti maBerber capes aaipfeka nawo. Zvitarisiko zvakamutsawo wadhiropu yaJane Fonda semusikana wepamusoro-soro wekufona mufirimu yaAlan J. Pakula-yakazara 1971, Klute (zvakaitawo mugadziri webvudzi Didier Malige's choppy shag-cuts). Iyo glam rock inobata-senge mheni mapendekete emheni uye mapendekete akakwira-yaikurudzira mapfekero aDavid Bowie ane simba ane simba eZiggy Stardust.
Vakomana vane asparagus vakaonda, panguva iyi, vakapfeka siginecha yaSlimane yakapfapfaidza-pajean, kana bhurugwa-rakachekwa rine mutsara wemauto pasi padivi, uye vakashongedza zvine hungwaru majaketi eHussar, seaya ekare aimbochiva naMick Jagger naJimi Hendrix. (mazhinji echitarisiko aive akanyorwa asina-mifananidzo-please rock star magirazi). Paive nemavelvets nemabrocades, nemajabots nemafedora, uye mabhachi akashongedzwa neaya eParisian embroideries, akaiswa pamwechete kuratidza kutaridzika kweiyo quintessential Los Angeleno, fashoni rocker uye anofarira NBA James Goldstein. Muunganidzwa waive tsamba yerudo kuguta Slimane adores. "Icho chaiva chidimbu cheunyanzvi munzira dzose," akadaro Jeffrey Deitch, uyo anofanira kuziva unyanzvi paanozviona. "Pane zvakawanda zvekushanda nazvo!" akaseka Lenny Kravitz.
Mushure mekunge Slimane aiwanzogara atora uta hwake (akapfeka bhachi reruby velvet, aine Oscar Wilde-kureba bvudzi), nzvimbo yekutamba yakashongedzwa netsvarakadenga diki. "Ndanga ndisingazive kuti kune vanhu vakawanda vakanaka, vane hudyu muLos Angeles," akadaro Lisa Eisner, uye ini ndikazotevera manzwiro iwayo. Zvichakadaro, ndakanga ndichiona asidhi ichidzokera kuCamden Palace, 1982, Steve Strange ari pamusuo uye Mukomana George ari pasi, akakombwa sezvandakanga ndakaita zvino nevakomana veBrassaï drag, kana kuti ra-ra siketi, musikana akapfeka senguo. zaftig Ophelia, Linda Ramone mune chena-mamita matatu-kureba Mad Hatter topper, uye gaggle ye pasty-faced, floppy-bvudzi vakomana mune tweedy plus mana aitaridzika, zvakanaka, chaizvo sezvakaita Wako Chokwadi - kunaka kundiitira nyasha, zvingaite. chokwadi kuva makore 35 apfuura?
Ipapo mabhenji akavhurwa dariro ndokubatidzwa naFather John Misty — wekutanga pavatambi 11, mumwe nemumwe achiita nziyo nhatu kana ina. Beck akatevera (akasununguka), uye ipapo Joan Jett akaenda kunhandare akapfeka katsi tsvuku uye chibhakera che punk, uye akaunza imba pasi ne "I Love Rock 'n' Roll." Zvakanaka, Joan. Boka revatambi vemapango kubva kuJumbo's Clown Room (vakamirira kuridza naAllah-Las uye vakapfeka mabhikini akapfeka rhinestone) vakabuda mudzimba dzavo dzekupfeka uye vaizunguza mumapapiro. “Maita basa, Hedi, nekugadzira mbatya dzakanaka kudai!” akashevedzera Jett, mhomho yevanhu ikatinhira.