Balenciaga Impeshyi / Impeshyi 2017 Paris

na ALEXANDER FURY

Demna Gvasalia yamaze igihe kinini ashakisha mu bubiko bwa Balenciaga kuva yinjira mu nzu mu Kwakira gushize. Ku buyobozi bwe, igitabo cyabanjirije Pre-Fall cyarashwe aho, mu gihe icyegeranyo cye cya mbere cy’abagore cyongeye gusobanura imyifatire iboneka muri Cristóbal Balenciaga yambaye imyenda ya buri munsi. Mu gihe Gvasalia yambaraga ikariso ya gazar, umugongo wa coco, hamwe n'amaboko atatu ya kane, Gvasalia yabonye ikote. Byari ibya Cristóbal, byakozwe n'amaboko ye. Ntiyigeze ayirangiza. Umuragwa we aheruka rero yemeje ko ari akazi ke kurangiza - maze ifungura iki gitaramo. Iyo kote ntabwo yari ishingiro ryo kudoda amakoti adakwiriye agize kimwe cya kabiri cyiki gitaramo; nayo yari ikigereranyo gikwiye rwose. Nta gihano gikwiye, nubwo gikwiye nicyo cyegeranyo cyari kigamije. Muri buri mufuka wamabere wicaye agace gato k'ikarita wababarirwa kubwo gutekereza ko ari kare. Gvasalia yemeje ko ari amakarita akoreshwa mu kwandika ibipimo by'abakiriya mu kudoda bespoke. Ngiyo imyenda y'abagabo yegereye cyane igera kuri haute couture, kandi Gvasalia yahisemo kuyikoresha nk'isimbuka rye kuri ibi, inzu ya Balenciaga yerekanwe bwa mbere mu bagabo.

Icyitegererezo kuri catwalk

Icyo Gvasalia yashushanyaga, ku gahato, yari silhouettes, yaba yagutse ikagera kuri gargantuan, Ikigereranyo cya Hejuru ya David Byrne, cyangwa igabanuka cyane ku mubiri ku buryo buri jacket yagaragaraga ko yambutse munsi yukuboko. Ipantaro yari ifite ubunini kandi byanze bikunze bifatanye n'umukandara, cyangwa kuzenguruka. Mu byingenzi, ntakintu cyasaga nkaho gihuye nuburyo nyabwo bwijambo, byari nkana rwose.

Kimwe na Cristóbal ubwe, Gvasaliya ashimishwa nubwubatsi bwimyenda. Imyambarire ye muri iki gihembwe yari hafi yigitugu-haba yaguye ikirenge kuruhande kugirango yerekane abanyamideli cyangwa yikwegeye cyane kubyimba ibitugu byabantu bigoreka umutwe wintoki. Hench na wench. Niba abambari bagize ingaruka zihuse, babiri berekana imideli hagati yabo nkuko amakipi yabo yumupira wamaguru yabanyamerika yagonganaga nka moderi ya Claude Montana ya kera, aba nyuma bari abanyabwenge bucece. Reba inyuma yimwe muri iyo kote ya Balenciaga yambaye neza kandi ihuye neza numubiri, icyiciro cyo kudoda. Gvasalia ati: "Nashakaga kubisunika."

Nta gushidikanya ko yabikoze. Ntabwo yari impera yimyenda gusa, ahubwo icyifuzo cyose cya silhouette itandukanye cyane, ishimangira imyenda yabagabo nubudozi, kugirango boot. Mu minota mike, Gvasalia yashoboye gusobanura neza abagabo biranga inzu. Ego ni ko, ayo makoti yose ntiyari asanzwe kubona mu gitaramo c'impeshyi - cyane cyane ko Gvasaliya yagarutse ku buhanga gakondo bwo kudoda bwo guhuza imiyoboro. Yahaye icyegeranyo uburemere - ntabwo ari ubwenge gusa, ahubwo n'umubiri. Yumvaga ari ngombwa gutanga imyenda mishya. Ati: "Nifuzaga kumva ibintu bisanzwe, bitunganye, kuri byose". Kubera iyo mpamvu, igitugu gityaye cyahinduwe mu myenda isanzwe, gisohoka muri Harrington na jackettes za MA-1. Basaga neza.

Ubwo buryo busanzwe, busanzwe bukuzana mumihango. Aho kugirango umugeni usoza imigenzo ya haute couture, Balenciaga yabonye Papa - cyangwa, byibura, imyenda imwegereye. Damasks ya kiliziya ishushanyije cyane, muri Inquisition ya Velázquez igicucu cya liturujiya itukura n'umuyugubwe, yavuye mubitanga kuri Holy Holy; uduce duke twa Vatikani twavuye munsi yamakoti, twibutsa imyenda yemeza. Gvasalia yavuze ko idini atari ryo ryagenewe gukoreshwa, ariko kuri Balenciaga-phile nka we (cyangwa njye), byanze bikunze guhuza ibyo na Gatolika ya Cristóbal yihaye Imana. Yasize atelier buri munsi asenga gusa, mu rusengero kuri Avenue George V; atelier ubwayo yafatwaga nka "shapeli" na Karl Lagerfeld; n'abakiriya ba Balenciaga bari abitangiye kwizera. Gatolika, Velázquez. Imihanda yose igaruka kuri Cristóbal.

Ese Cristóbal Balenciaga yakumva ibyabaye munzu yashinze muri 1919? Birashoboka ko atari-ariko birashoboka ko atazumva uko bigenda kumyambarire yimyambarire ya none, guhagarara byuzuye. Imyambarire yimyambarire kubagabo? Ninde washoboraga kubitekereza? Icyo yashima ni inyungu za Gvasalia mubwubatsi, mugukora ikintu gishya, gitandukanye, kandi gishimishije. Igitekerezo cyo gusunika imipaka, cyo guhanga udatezuka. Kandi muri Gvasaliya rwose, ibitekerezo byamaraso byuzuye mubyo akora, kabone niyo ibyo bihagaze neza hanze yimyambarire yigihe cye.

Ibyo birahagije kubyerekeye umuzimu wa Cristóbal, nubwo. Kurangiza, ikoti yumwimerere archive Gvasalia yari yarangije niyo yonyine itagarutse. Inshingano? Ko Balenciaga yari yarimukiye mubintu bishya. Ibi birashobora kuba aribwo bwa mbere, ariko mubyizere byayo, byunvikana nkikintu cyose ariko.

Balenciaga Impeshyi / Impeshyi 2017 Paris

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