by ALEXANDER FURY
Demna Gvasalia ya kwashe lokaci mai yawa yana bincike ta cikin tarihin Balenciaga tun lokacin da ya koma gidan a watan Oktoban da ya gabata. A karkashin jagorancinsa, da alama an harbe littafin duba Pre-Fall a can, yayin da tarin kayan sawa na mata na farko ya sake fassara halayen da aka samu a cikin kyawawan tufafin Cristóbal Balenciaga na tufafin yau da kullun na yau. Yayin da take taka mata leda a lulluɓe na gazar, kwakwa-baya, da rigunan hannu guda uku, Gvasalia ta sami riga. Nasa ne na Cristóbal, wanda hannunsa ya yi. Bai gama ba. Don haka magajinsa na baya-bayan nan ya yanke shawarar cewa aikinsa ne ya kammala shi - kuma ya buɗe wannan wasan kwaikwayo. Wannan rigar ba wai kawai tushen yin amfani da jaket ɗin da ba su dace ba wanda ya ƙunshi rabin wannan wasan kwaikwayo; ya kasance madaidaicin kwatanci ga baki ɗaya. Babu lamuni akan dacewa, kodayake dacewa shine abin da tarin ya kasance. A cikin kowace aljihun nono akwai ƙaramin katin da za a gafarta maka don tunanin wani yanki ne na aljihu. Gvasalia ya tabbatar da cewa su ne katunan dacewa da ake amfani da su don yin rikodin ma'auni na abokan ciniki a cikin tela. Wannan shine mafi kusancin tufafin maza da ya taɓa samun kyan gani, kuma Gvasalia ya zaɓi ya yi amfani da shi a matsayin matakin tsalle-tsalle don wannan, gidan wasan kwaikwayo na farko na maza na Balenciaga.
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Abin da Gvasalia ya ƙera, da ƙarfi, wasu silhouettes guda biyu ne, ko dai an faɗaɗa su zuwa gargantuan, ƙimar Maganar Maganar David Byrne, ko kuma sun ruɗe kusa da jiki har kowane mai jujjuya jaket ya bayyana yana haye ƙarƙashin hannu. Wando sun kasance masu ƙarfi kuma dole ne a ɗaure su da bel, ko kuma masu yawon shakatawa. Ainihin, babu abin da ya yi kama da ya dace da ainihin ma'anar kalmar, wanda ke da niyya.
Kamar Cristóbal kansa, Gvasalia yana sha'awar gine-ginen tufafi. Tufafin sa na wannan kakar sun kasance game da kafadu - ko dai ya faɗaɗa ƙafar ƙafa a gefe don yaɗa nau'in nasu ko kuma ya ja daɗaɗɗen kumburin kafadar ɗan adam yana karkatar da kan hannun riga. Hench vs wench. Idan 'yan baranda sun fi tasiri kai tsaye, nau'ikan nau'ikan nau'ikan nau'ikan nau'ikan nau'ikan nau'ikan nau'ikan nau'ikan nau'ikan nau'ikan nau'ikan nau'ikan nau'ikan nau'ikan nau'ikan nau'ikan nau'ikan nau'ikan wasan kwallon kafa na Amurka sun yi karo da juna kamar nau'ikan Claude Montana na zamanin da, na karshen ya kasance cikin hazaka. Dubi bayan kowane ɗayan waɗancan riguna na Balenciaga masu ɗaure da bandeji kuma sun dace daidai da jiki, babban aji na tela. "Ina so in tura shi," in ji Gvasalia.
Tabbas yayi. Ba wai kawai ƙarshen riguna ba, amma duk shawarar da aka yi na musamman, silhouette mai mahimmanci daban-daban don suturar maza da tela, don taya. A cikin ƴan mintuna kaɗan, Gvasalia ya sami nasarar bayyana ainihin ainihin mazaje na gidan. Tabbas, duk waɗancan riguna sun kasance baƙon abu don ganin wani wasan kwaikwayo na bazara-musamman yayin da Gvasalia ya dawo dabarun ɗinkin gargajiya na zane-zane. Ya ba tarin nauyi-ba kawai hankali ba, amma na zahiri. Ya ji yana da mahimmanci a ba da yadudduka sabon hannu. "Ina son jin ka'ida, na kamala, ga komai," in ji shi. Don haka, an fassara kafada mai kaifi cikin rigar tufafi na yau da kullun, tana fitowa daga Harrington da Jaket ɗin bom na MA-1. Sun yi kyau.
Wannan ƙa'idar, a zahiri, tana kawo ku zuwa bikin. Maimakon amarya ta rufe al'adar haute couture, Balenciaga ya sami Paparoma-ko, aƙalla, wasu siliki da ke kusa da shi. Damasks na ecclesiastical da aka zana, a cikin inuwar Inquisition na Velázquez na liturgical ja da shunayya, sun fito ne daga mai ba da kayayyaki ga Mai Tsarki; wasu ’yan rigunan yadin da aka saka na Vatican da aka leƙe daga ƙarƙashin sutturar rigar rigar tabbatarwa. Gvasalia ya ce addini ba shine abin da ake nufi ba, amma ga Balenciaga-phile kamar shi (ko ni), babu makawa a haɗa hakan da Kiristanci na Katolika na Kirista. Ya bar atelier dinsa kowace rana don yin addu'a kawai, a cikin coci a kan Avenue George V; Karl Lagerfeld ya ce atelier da kansa a matsayin "chapel"; kuma abokan cinikin Balenciaga sun kasance masu karewa na bangaskiya. Katolika, Velázquez. Duk hanyoyi suna komawa zuwa Cristóbal.
Shin Cristóbal Balenciaga zai fahimci abin da ya zama gidan da ya kafa a 1919? Wataƙila ba haka ba - amma yana yiwuwa ba zai fahimci abin da ya faru na duniyar salon zamani ba, cikakken tsayawa. Fashion nuna ga maza? Wanene zai iya tunanin haka? Abin da zai yaba shi ne sha'awar Gvasalia ga gini, wajen kera wani sabon abu, daban, da ban sha'awa. Tunanin tura iyakoki, na ƙirƙira marar iyaka. Kuma a cikin cikakkiyar hukuncin Gvasalia, mai zubar da jini a cikin abin da yake yi, ko da lokacin da wannan ya tsaya tsayin daka a waje da salon zamaninsa.
Wannan ya isa game da fatalwar Cristobal, kodayake. A ƙarshe, ainihin rigar kayan tarihin da Gvasalia ya gama shine kawai kamannin da bai sake fitowa ba. Abin nufi? Wannan Balenciaga ya koma wani sabon abu. Wannan na iya zama na farko, amma a cikin tabbacinsa, ya ji kamar wani abu sai dai.