naALEXANDER FURY
Demna Gvasalia akapedza nguva yakawanda achiongorora mudura reBalenciaga kubvira paakapinda mumba Gumiguru apfuura. Achitungamirirwa naye, Pre-Fall lookbook yakapfurwa ipapo, ukuwo muunganidzwa wake wekutanga wezvipfeko zvechikadzi akadudzirazve maitiro anowanikwa muCristóbal Balenciaga's haute couture yezvipfeko zvemazuva ano zvemazuva ano. Paaimupenengura mumachira akafukidzwa egazar, zvikoko-musana, uye nemaoko matatu muzvina zvake, Gvasalia akawana bhachi. Yaiva yaCristóbal pachake, yakagadzirwa nemaoko ake. Haana kumbozvipedza. Saka mugari wenhaka wake wekupedzisira akasarudza kuti rakanga riri basa rake kuti aipedze-uye yakazarura iyi shoo.Iyo jasi rakanga risiri chete hwaro hwekusona mabhachi asina kukodzera aiumba hafu yeshoo iyi; raivawo dimikira rakakodzera pakuzara kwayo. Hapana pun pakukodzera, kunyangwe kukwana kwaive kuri iko kuunganidzwa kwaive nezve. Muhomwe yega yega yepazamu paigara kadhi kadiki wairegererwa nekufunga kuti chaive chikwere chehomwe. Gvasalia akati ndiwo makadhi akakodzera anoshandiswa kurekodha kuyerwa kwevatengi mukusona bespoke. Ndiwo zvipfeko zvechirume zvepedyo zvakambosvika kuhaute couture, uye Gvasalia akasarudza kuishandisa senzvimbo yake yekusvetuka-svetuka yeiyi, imba yeBalenciaga yekutanga-yekutanga varume nhandare yemitambo.
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Muenzaniso pane catwalk
Izvo Gvasalia akarongedzerwa, zvine simba, aive maviri emasilhouettes, angave akawedzerwa kuita gargantuan, David Byrne's Talking Heads zviyero, kana kutetepa padyo nemuviri zvekuti jekete rega rega raitaridza kuyambuka pasi peruoko. Mudhebhe waive wakakura uye waisungirirwa mabhandi, kana kuti tourniquet-tight. Zvikurukuru, hapana chairatidzika sechaikwana mupfungwa yechokwadi yeshoko racho, iro rakanga riri remaune chose chose.
Kufanana naCristóbal pachake, Gvasalia anofadzwa nemavakirwo embatya. Nguo dzake mwaka uno dzaive dzemapendekete - pamwe akawedzera tsoka padivi kuita mamodheru madiki kana kudhonzwa zvakasimba kuzvimba kwebendekete remunhu kwakanganisa musoro weruoko. Hench versus wench. Kana mahenchmen akave nemhedzisiro yekukurumidza, vaviri vemodheru vachiroverana sezvo mapedhi avo eAmerican nhabvu-saizi airwisana semhando dzeClaude Montana dzekare, iyo yekupedzisira yaive nehungwaru chinyararire. Tarisa kumashure kweimwe yeaya mabhandiji-akasimba majasi eBalenciaga uye anonyatso kuenderana nemuviri, inogadzira tenzi kirasi. "Ndaida kuisundidzira," akadaro Gvasalia.
Zvechokwadi akadaro. Yakanga isiri iyo mhedziso yezvipfeko, asi chirevo chese chechimiro chakanyanya, chakasimbiswa chakasiyana silhouette yezvipfeko zvevarume nekugadzira, kubhoti. Mumaminetsi mapfupi, Gvasalia akakwanisa kujekesa murume anga asisazivike pamba apa. Sezvineiwo, ese aya majasi aive asina kujairika kuona kune inoshamisira yeChirimo show-kunyanya sezvo Gvasalia akadzokera kune echinyakare ailoring matekiniki eakavharirwa interlinings. Yakapa muunganidzwa huremu-kwete chete njere, asi muviri. Akaona zvakakosha kukweretesa machira ruoko rutsva. "Ndaida kunzwa kwechimiro, chekukwana, kune zvese," akadaro. Saka, bendekete rakapinza rakashandurirwa muwadhiropu yakajairika, ichibuda muHarrington uye MA-1 bhomba jaketi. Vaitaridzika zvakanaka.
Icho chimiro, sezvazviri, chinokuunza iwe kumhemberero. Panzvimbo pemuroora wekuvhara wehaute couture tsika, Balenciaga akawana Pope-kana, zvirinani, mamwe masiriki ari padyo naye. Iwo akapfuma ane damask echechi, muVelázquez's Inquisition shades ye liturgical red and purple, yakabva kumupi weHoly See; maepuroni mashoma eLace eVatican akadongorera kubva pasi pejasi, anoyeuchidza hembe dzekusimbisa. Gvasalia akati chitendero handicho chairehwa, asi kuBalenciaga-phile saiye (kana ini), hazvidzivisike kubatanidza izvozvo neCatholic yakazvipira yaCristóbal. Aisiya chitoro chake zuva nezuva kuti angonamata chete, muchechi iri muna Avenue George V; iyo atelier pachayo yakanzi "chapel" naKarl Lagerfeld; uye vatengi veBalenciaga vaive vadziviriri vakazvipira vekutenda. ChiKaturike, Velázquez. Migwagwa yese inodzokera kuCristóbal.
Cristóbal Balenciaga anganzwisisa here zvave paimba yaakavamba muna 1919? Zvichida kwete-asi zvingangoita kuti aisazonzwisisa kuti chii chakaitika munyika yefashoni yemazuva ano, kumira kwakazara. Mafashoni anoratidza varume? Ndiani angave akafungidzira izvozvo? Chaaizofarira kufarira kwaGvasalia mukuvaka, mukugadzira chimwe chinhu chitsva, chakasiyana, uye chinofadza. Pfungwa yekusundidzira miganhu, yekugadzirwa kusingaregi. Uye mukutenda kwaGvasalia kwakazara, kweropa mune zvaari kuita, kunyangwe izvo zvakamira zvakatsunga kunze kwefashoni yenguva yake.
Zvakakwana nezve chipoko cheCristóbal, zvakadaro. Pakupera, jasi rekutanga rekuchengetera dura rakanga rapedzwa naGvasalia ndiro chete kutaridzika kusina kubuda zvakare. Zvazvinoreva? Kuti Balenciaga akanga atamira kune chimwe chinhu chitsva. Izvi zvinogona kunge zvaive debut, asi mukuvimbisa kwayo, zvaiita senge pasina.