ngu-ALEXANDER FURY
UDemna Gvasalia uchithe ixesha elininzi ehlola oovimba baseBalenciaga okoko wazibandakanya nendlu ka-Okthobha ophelileyo. Phantsi kolwalathiso lwakhe, incwadi yokujonga i-Pre-Fall ngokucacileyo yadutyulwa apho, ngelixa ingqokelela yakhe yokuqala yesinxibo sabasetyhini ichaza ngokutsha izimo zengqondo ezifunyenwe kwi-haute couture kaCristóbal Balenciaga kwiimpahla zemihla ngemihla zanamhlanje. Ngoxa wayegqogqa iirakhi ezigqunyiweyo ze-gazar, i-cocoon-backs, kunye nemikhono yekota yesithathu, uGvasalia wafumana idyasi. Yayiyeyakhe uCristóbal, eyenziwe ngezandla zakhe. Akazange ayigqibe. Ngoko indlalifa yakhe yamva nje yagqiba ukuba yayingumsebenzi wayo ukuyigqiba-kwaye yavula lo mboniso.Loo dyasi yayingeyosiseko nje sokuthungwa kweebhatyi ezingafakwanga ezenza isiqingatha salo mboniso; yayikwayisikweko esifanelekileyo xa siphelele. Akukho pun ekufakeni, nangona kufanelekile yayiyilento ingqokelela yayimalunga nayo. Kwipokotho nganye yamabele kwakuhlala iqhekezana lekhadi uya kuxolelwa ngokucinga ukuba sisikwere sepokotho. UGvasalia uye waqinisekisa ukuba ngamakhadi afanelekileyo asetyenziselwa ukurekhoda imilinganiselo yabathengi ekuthungeni okuqhelekileyo. Sesona sinxibo samadoda sikufutshane esakhe safika kwi-haute couture, kwaye uGvasalia wakhetha ukusisebenzisa njengendawo yakhe yokutsiba koku, indlu kaBalenciaga yomdlalo weenqwelomoya wokuqala wamadoda.
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Umzekelo kwi-catwalk
Into eyenziwa nguGvasalia, ngokunyanzeliswayo, yayiyipere yeesilhouettes, mhlawumbi zandiswe kwi-gargantuan, i-David Byrne's Talking Heads proportions, okanye i-shrunken isondele kakhulu emzimbeni kangangokuba irever yebhatyi nganye ibonakala inqumla phantsi kwengalo. Iibhulukhwe zazigqabhukile kwaye zibotshelelwe ngamabhanti, okanye ziqiniswe kwi-tourniquet. Ngokusisiseko, akukho nto yayibonakala ngathi ifanelekile ngokwenyani yeli gama, eyayisenziwa ngabom ngokupheleleyo.
NjengoCristóbal ngokwakhe, uGvasalia uyayithanda indlela yokwakhiwa kweempahla. Iimpahla zakhe kweli xesha lonyaka zazimalunga namagxa-enokwandisa unyawo olusecaleni ukuze lube mfutshane eyakhe imodeli okanye itsalwe ngokuqinileyo ukudumba kwegxalaba lomntu kugqwethe umkhono wentloko. I-Hench ngokuchasene ne-wench. Ukuba i-henchmen yayinempembelelo ekhawulezileyo, izibini zeemodeli zibethana ngamagxa njengoko iipads zabo zobungakanani bebhola ekhatywayo yaseMelika zingqubana njengemodeli yakudala kaClaude Montana, le yokugqibela yayikrelekrele. Jonga ngasemva kwanoma yiyiphi na i-bandage-tight Balenciaga idyasi kwaye ifakwe ngokugqibeleleyo kumzimba, iklasi ye-master yokuthunga. “Bendifuna ukuyityhala,” watsho uGvasalia.
Ngokuqinisekileyo wenjenjalo. Kwakungekhona nje ukuphela kweengubo, kodwa isiphakamiso esipheleleyo se-silhouette ephezulu kakhulu, egxininisekileyo ehlukeneyo yeengubo zamadoda kunye nokuthunga, ukuqala. Kwimizuzu emifutshane, uGvasalia ukwazile ukucacisa isazisi samadoda awayekade engaziwa endlwini. Kuyavunywa ukuba, zonke ezo dyasi zazingaqhelekanga ukubona umboniso obonakalayo waseNtwasahlobo-ingakumbi njengoko iGvasalia ibuyele kubuchule bemveli bokuthunga be-interlinings. Yanika ingqokelela ubunzima-kungekhona nje ingqondo, kodwa ngokomzimba. Wabona kubalulekile ukuboleka amalaphu isandla esitsha. “Ndandifuna ukuziva ndisemthethweni, ndigqibelele, kuyo yonke into,” utshilo. Ngenxa yoko, igxalaba elibukhali laguqulelwa kwi-wardrobe eqhelekileyo, ephuma eHarrington kunye ne-MA-1 yeebhatyi zebhomu. Babejongeka kamnandi.
Oko kusesikweni, ngokwendalo, kukuzisa kumsitho. Endaweni yokuvalwa komtshakazi wesiko le-haute couture, u-Balenciaga wafumana uPapa-okanye, ubuncinci, ezinye iisilika ezikufutshane kuye. Iidamaski zecawa ezinobutyebi, kwi-Velázquez's Inquisition shades of liturgical red and purple, zivela kumthengisi kwi-Holy See; iifaskoti ezimbalwa zeleyisi zaseVatican ezikrolwe phantsi kweedyasi, zisikhumbuza ngeengubo zokuqinisekisa. UGvasalia uthe inkolo yayingeyiyo eyona ngxelo ijongisiweyo, kodwa kuBalenciaga-phile ofana naye (okanye mna), akunakuthintelwa ukuyidibanisa nobuKatolika obuzinikeleyo bukaCristóbal. Wayeshiya ivenkile yakhe yonke imihla ukuya kuthandaza kuphela, kwicawa ekwiAvenue George V; i-atelier ngokwayo yathathwa njenge "chapel" nguKarl Lagerfeld; kunye nabathengi beBalenciaga babengabakhuseli abazinikeleyo bokholo. UbuKatolika, uVelázquez. Zonke iindlela zibuyela eCristóbal.
Ngaba uCristóbal Balenciaga ebeya kuyiqonda into eyenzekayo kwindlu awayiseka ngowe-1919? Mhlawumbi akunjalo-kodwa kusenokwenzeka ukuba akayiqondi into eyenzekayo kwihlabathi lefashoni yangoku, ukuyeka ngokupheleleyo. Imiboniso yefashoni yamadoda? Ngubani owayenokuyithelekelela loo nto? Into anokuyixabisa ngumdla kaGvasalia wokwakha, ekwenzeni into entsha, eyahlukileyo, nenika umdla. Ingcamango yokutyhala imida, yokuyilwa okungapheliyo. Kwaye kwinkolelo kaGvasalia, enengqondo enegazi kwinto ayenzayo, nokuba loo nto imi ngaphandle kwefashoni yexesha lakhe.
Kwanele malunga nesiporho sikaCristóbal, nangona kunjalo. Ekugqibeleni, idyasi yokuqala yogcino olugqityiweyo uGvasalia yayikuphela kwenkangeleko engazange iphinde ivele. Iyintoni intsingiselo? Ukuba uBalenciaga wayeqhubele phambili kwinto entsha. Oku kunokuba yinto yokuqala, kodwa kwingqinisekiso yayo, ivakale ngathi nantoni na.